I realize that we have not said much regarding the cultural differences we have encountered here in Korea. Our silence has not been for want of material; if anything, our preoccupation with adapting to some of the differences has likely been at least partially to blame. Some cultural differences have been interesting, others annoying. The one I am about to elaborate upon was interesting... at first.
So, allow me to share with you the facts regarding ajummas. "Ajumma" is a Korean word which refers to a middle-aged, married woman. As you may imagine, ajummas may be seen everywhere here. Their gloved hands, permed hair, and over sized sun visors are quite hard to miss.
Here is a good definition I found online: "Ajumma (아줌마) : A term used to address an adult female individual of married age and/or runs a business or restaurant. The stereotypical 'ajumma' image is that of a short, stocky, tough old woman who wears purple pants and permed hair, and has sharp elbows on the subway. The word ajumma is also used to call older women when in a restaurant or simply when getting a person's attention, but it is best to only call older women this as women of a somewhat younger age may not think of themselves as ajummas yet, especially if they are in their 30s and maybe even early 40s."
Traditionally, women have not occupied a high place in the social strata of Korea. In the not-so-distant past Korean women were expected to live quiet, sober lives and work in the home. In fact, this expectation still exists to some degree. However, after middle-age a metamorphosis begins to occur. Generally speaking, the older the ajumma, the more pronounced the change appears to be. If you ever come to Korea, here are a few important, if unofficial, rules to keep in mind regarding ajummas:
1. Ajummas may do whatever they like. For example, they are not required to wait their turn in line. They may enter the line wherever they choose, and it so happens that this is usually right in front of you.
2. When passing an ajumma in a crowd, beware her elbows and feet. In Korea pushing and shoving in crowded situations is the norm. However, it is considered respectful to keep a polite distance from elders. As you might imagine, this is often not possible. Still, ajummas will not hesitate to enforce this social law by jabbing you in the gut or stomping your sandal-clad toe.
3. Ajummas are not your friend.
4. Ajummas do not approve of your presence in Korea. But don't take it personally; they don't approve of anyone.
5. Finally, ajummas can snort, hack, and hock lugies like the best men, and do so quite frequently. They were done being sexy a long, long time ago.
A case in point: While standing in line to purchase a bus ticket, I noticed a gray-haired woman approach from the side and begin lingering around the front of the line. She craftily fained as though she was digging for money in her purse -in fact, she was looking for a prime opportunity to edge her way into the front of the line. When she spotted me, a pasty-looking waegook ("foreigner"), she knew exactly where she would make her move. As my turn at the ticket window approached, the ajumma casually ooched closer while continuing to rummage in her bag.
The person in front of me finished purchasing his ticket, and I stepped up to the window. Just as I took a breath to speak, the woman literally elbowed her way in front of me and stomped my toe. She thrust a wad of bills at the attendant behind the glass and shouted, "Masan-heng pyo han-jang chooseep seyo!" (give me a ticket to Masan). Amazingly, she did all this without so much as looking at me.
If you ever come to Korea, heed this warning: Beware the ajumma.
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