Aaron Can See!

Poor Aaron had brought two pairs of glasses to Korea, but has lost one and had the screw fall out of another, so he's basically been squinting his way through class for the past 5 or so months. We had heard that glasses in Korea are pretty cheap, so we decided to go ahead and get him a new pair. Thankfully, Henry was there to help with the communication, and it ended up being a pretty standard visit. Free eye exam (although no glaucoma test), color blind test, and standard reading from the eye chart. They did put some glasses on him that created the image of a 3-d fly, and he was asked to reach out and touch the fly's wing. That was interesting. Anyway, then came the task of choosing frames. Nancy commented on how almost all of them are horn-rimmed and rectangular, and they are almost always too wide for a Westerner's face. Koreans typically have very round faces, so I guess that shape compliments them best.
Short of going over to the children's section, he had little to choose from in the "round-ish" category.


These gems were by suggestion of the optometrist himself. He motioned to his nose, I think because he was trying to say that for Aaron's western size nose these would be the best choice. I started laughing and that was the end of those.


I had to put my foot down with these. They were waaaay too Harry Potter, and they had a weird green tint going on.


These were Nancy's favorite (I believe she said something about Clarke Gable), and I think that Aaron was almost sold on them, but when I said that he looked a little like a dad he silently began searching again.


At last he settled on these. They're perfect for his face, and as he said they are more comfortable than any other pair he's worn. The whole process ended up being a little more expensive than we thought. The frames were about $40 and the lenses were $30. Still not terrible, and he's really happy with them.

What do you think? :)

Bemmy and Shoe

Two of my at home classes are made up of 4-5 year olds who are definitely the most fun, but also the most difficult to teach. Class is 50 minutes and is mostly spent keeping crayons out of mouths, and bottoms off the piano (that happens to be conveniently situated at seat level when they stand up on their grown up sized chairs). I mostly drill them on ABC's and counting, but we also use a little book with simple vocabulary words and pages for coloring. The main characters are little cartoon bears named Benny and Sue, or "Bemmy and Shoe" as the kids say. Cute.

During the lesson, Alice's mother usually comes in to bring us little yogurt drinks and one of the little boys always takes mine off the tray and hands it to me. It's really precious!

This past lesson I decided to give them a break and do a craft. We made bear masks. I only have pictures from one group. Here's how they turned out:

This is John. He's the best at speaking English. You can see the piano in the background. He crawls all over it the most.
This is Ryan. He loves stickers and the color red.
Here's Alice. She's really sweet and quiet and used to not talk to me at all. Now I have her reciting the ABC's like a pro.
This is Chris. He is really cute, but doesn't really pay attention to me. He barely responds to his English name I gave him 2 months ago, and he wears that shirt every Friday.

Trip to Yeosu: Part 2

I took this picture of Yeosu after climbing part of the way up a cement stairway that runs up the side of one of the mountains that surrounds the city.


The second day at Yeosu, which was Sunday, we went to a nearby beach. The beach was not large, but was tucked away into a peaceful little cove, and their were hardly any other people there.


One of Henry's friends from university arrived not long after we got there, and brought his two little girls along -as well as a couple of handy beach umbrellas.



We're informed that Koreans, in general, don't care much for swimming. But these guys, just down the beach from us, were certainly having fun.


Henry, however, can be classified among the "no swimming" Koreans. He quickly improvised a means of keeping the sun off his neck, and was more than happy to chill on the beach.


There appeared to be a great deal of fishing in the area, as evidenced by the numerous boats not far away. Later I spotted a number of people fishing off of some nearby rocks.



I wasn't sure what the massive concrete blocks were for. They seemed a bit excessive if their purpose was to prevent coastal erosion. I thought maybe they were placed there to protect the boats on the other side from storm surge during typhoons, but I really don't know.


I thought I'd include this one because it illustrates something we see a lot here. This squatting posture is quite comfortable to most Koreans and is the result of spending most of their domestic life on the floor. I'm probably half this guy's age, but if I sat like this for one minute my feet would grow so numb I wouldn't be able to walk straight...


The neighborhood that was near the beach was very old, and consisted of traditional roads and houses. As you can see, the road was very narrow and had a wall on either side of it. Gates, usually with large, metal doors, were located at intervals along the walls. These led into the courtyards and gardens of the houses.


The roofs of the houses were distinctly Asian.




I noticed this sign among the houses. I assume that the evacuation route is mainly in case of a tsunami or typhoon, though it occurs to me that a fire among the maze of houses might also necessitate a quick escape.

A little piece of Americana

I don't think we could leave here without talking about our experience at McDonalds. I think just about everyone hunts down a Mickey D's when they visit another country, whether it's for novelty purposes or just because they're starving. For us, it was a little of both. We knew it would satisfy the taste for home without having to work for it. It's a little escape we like to take about once a week or so when I don't feel like cooking. I haven't tried the hamburger, but Aaron says that a Big Mac is a Big Mac no matter where you are, so I guess it would taste alright. They make sure you know that the beef is 100 percent Australian. This is important since the Koreans don't want anything to do with the "crazy cows" from the U.S. We usually order the "Shanghai Spice" chicken sandwich set anyway.
There isn't' anything too unusual on the menu. They have all the standards, except for the salads which is a bummer. They do not have BBQ sauce, but instead they offer a red pepper sauce to dip your chicken into. It's so Korean!
They have the same exact delicious hot fudge sundae for W1000 (about $1).
So here's a little clip of "America" in Korea:

Creepier than an Ajumma

For the past couple weeks we've been seeing these super big spiders on our walk towards E-Mart. They make these webs that are tethered with a thick strand going from one side of the walkway to the other. They also share the web with two or three smaller spiders of the same kind. I hate them, but they're so interesting I can't resist stopping to have a look. In this video, I have a constant look of distress on my face. Sorry about that, this was creepy for me. I realize that people haven't seen us in 6 months and would probably rather see us running around laughing, but this is all I've got so far. Maybe that will be in the next video. Anyway, enjoy!
Oh and at the end I began to talk about how big his web was, but Aaron cut me off. He feels badly about it. :)




You can see the food he has caught.

I'm really more of a vlogger than a blogger

Here's one of us trying to catch a cab to the mall. See if you can hear the cabbie's ajumma music in the background.

Trip to Yeosu: Part 1

Over the weekend, Katie and I took a trip to Yeosu with Henry and Nancy. Yeosu is about 100 miles east of Changwon, and is Henry's old college town. We arrived Saturday morning and stayed until Sunday afternoon.


When we arrived, we met one of Henry's university friends for lunch at a Chinese restaurant.


Korean Chinese food is quite different than American Chinese food. We ate deep-fried pork, smothered in a sweet sauce, and rice with a fried egg on top. There was also the obligatory kimchi and other Korean side dishes. If you're wondering what is accompanying the rice on my plate, it is a small pile of shredded cabbage with a healthy dollop of ketchup on it. Koreans seem to think of this as an exotic garnishment, as I've seen it served with a variety of "foreign" foods.


Yeosu is famous for, among other things, a full-scale, functional reproduction of a turtle ship (Geobukseon in Korean). Admiral Yi used turtle ships, the world's first iron-clad battle ships, to defeat the Japanese navy when they invaded in 1592.


On Saturday afternoon we decided to visit the Hyang-Ir-Am temple. The temple is located at the top of a low coastal mountain called Mt. Geumo, and was established in A.D. 659. At the base of the mountain, a short peninsula extends into the sea. The Koreans have always believed that this natural formation looks like a giant turtle crawling toward the ocean; thus, the temple is located on the turtle's back. In this photo you can distinguish the turtle's shell on the right and its head extending to the left.


On our way toward the base of the mountain we passed this interesting looking house, which I think is used as a seaside lodge.


We spotted this enormous spider along the way. It's a shame you can't tell just how large it was by looking at the picture. I'd say it was at least as wide as a quarter when its legs were drawn in as they are in the photo.


A small village is located just below the mountain, and we walked through it before starting our ascent toward the temple.




As the road began to rise toward Mt. Geumo it suddenly grew very steep. Small restaurants and shops lined each side of the street, and we saw dozens of women preparing different kinds of kimchi.




After paying a modest entrance fee -2,000 won each- we began the arduous hike to the temple itself. At the top of a massive stone staircase we passed beneath the elaborately carved and painted temple gate.




Within Buddhism, dragons represent longevity.




We were still far from the temple, however. We continued to climb for some time, and the path eventually led us, narrowly, between two huge rock walls. As we passed between them the walls narrowed until they brushed our shoulders before we emerged onto the other side.


After making several turns around large rock outcroppings, we arrived at Hyang-Ir-Am. The buildings that comprise the temple complex overlook the ocean. The temple faces east, and is met by the sunrise each morning. The spectacle is popular with tourists.


As do most Buddhist temples, Hyang-Ir-Am features an ornate and massive bell equipped with a battering ram (I'm sure there's a proper term for it, but that's what it looks like).


A friendly tour guide began showing us around at one point. Here, he explained to Katie and Nancy that cranes in the painting represent longevity.


"They have mouths, but they speak not. Eyes have they, but they see not. They have ears, but they hear not..." Psalm 115:5,6


"...when they knew God, they glorified him not as God, neither were thankful; but became vain in their imaginations, and their foolish heart was darkened. Professing themselves to be wise, they became fools, and changed the glory of the uncorruptible God into an image made like to corruptible man..." Romans 1:21-23


Turtles represent... you guessed it, longevity. Sticking with the turtle theme, families donate money to the temple to have their names written on the bottoms of these granite turtle statues which are then placed so they are facing the sea -the same direction as the turtle-shaped peninsula.


Henry and Nancy pose for a photo on a wide patio that overlooks the ocean

Videos From Busan

To follow up on our recent trip to Busan, here are a few videos that Katie shot using our Canon Power Shot.


This one gives you a pretty good idea of what Haeundae Market is like. The water in the tub is not boiling; it's full of small, live eels. Notice the guy on the scooter that blows past with little regard to pedestrian traffic.


This is not an uncommon sight in Korea -a Buddhist incessantly hitting a block of wood and asking for donations.


This is what getting on the subway at Sasang Station looks like.


Here are a couple from the beach.

The Looking Glass From the Other Side

According to a group of about thirteen Korean students (ages 13-15 years), here are some common stereotypes that Koreans have about Americans:

• They are rich.
• They eat steak.
• They have good bodies.
• They are fat.
• They are handsome.
• They have blond hair.
• They have blue eyes.
• They have big noses.
• They have guns.

As to being rich, I suppose this is not an uncommon perception of Americans all over the world. Nothing new here, except that it's a bit ironic that the relatively affluent Koreans are lending their voices to the chorus.

The steak thing didn't surprise me too much, but that's only as the result of having been here for six months now. If you ask Korean kids to name two American foods, they will probably say steak and hamburgers.

It was the girls that said "good bodies", and naturally I assumed they were referring to American men. Upon further reflection however, and in light of their following response, I wonder if they meant American women...

Okay, we all knew that people around the world say Americans are fat. I mean, what else is new? But hey, they're just jealous, right? Ironically, Koreans are starting to pork up a bit themselves. Alas! the hazards of a middle-class lifestyle.

There is very little ethnic diversity here in Korea, and beyond their interaction with their foreign teachers, these kids' conception of Americans is largely based on the movies they watch. Handsome American actors have no-doubt done us all a great favor in this respect.

The blond hair/blue eyes thing seemed a little strange to me at first. Of course, some Americans fit this description. But I've learned that Koreans tend to call any hair color other than black "yellow". Thus, I'm blond, even though my hair is light brown. Likewise, any eye-color other than brown becomes "blue". I asked this same group what color my eyes are, and they told me blue.

Trust me, you don't realize just how large your nose actually is until you live in Asia. At least this doesn't disqualify us from being "handsome".

That every American has at least one gun is a perception that I've found not only in Korea, but also in Europe. I guess they figure we're each issued one at birth or something. What a concept: "baby's first side arm". Koreans aren't allowed to own guns except in very rare cases.

Back to Busan

After an interim of nearly three months, Katie and I finally made it back to Busan for some much needed relaxation on Saturday. The weather was perfect and, as the high season was nearly over, Haeundae Beach wasn't too crowded. We documented our excursion in photos.

Our journey started at Starbucks, where we ate pastries and drank "real" coffee. Korean coffee is really awful. You know the coffee that comes out of a machine and is dispensed into little cups with poker cards on them? If you've ever been so unfortunate as to have tasted that, you have a pretty good idea of what coffee tastes like here in Korea. Though I don't care much for Starbucks coffee at home, here it tastes really wonderful.


While we were having our coffee, we noticed this new-hire orientation taking place. Koreans are serious about service, so I'm sure these guys were taking close notes.


After coffee we took a cab to Nam San Bus Terminal. Unlike most things in Korea, cabs are actually pretty cheap. It only cost us about $2.50 to be taken the five or so miles to Nam San.


A one-way ticket from Nam San Terminal to Sasang Station in Busan is a little over $3.00. We've never waited more that twenty minutes for the bus to arrive; I think they're supposed to arrive every fifteen minutes or so.


There was already a line for the bus to Busan when we arrived, and when the bus pulled up it already had passengers on it. Knowing that the bus would be too crowded, Katie and I opted to let this one go and wait for the next one. We've made the mistake of boarding a crowded bus before, only to find that we were unable to sit next to eachother. Also, no one ensures that the number of passengers boarding the bus doesn't exceed the maximum capacity, and Koreans will think nothing of standing in the aisle for the entire bus ride. I once had a woman stand in the aisle next to me for the duration of the much longer trip from Changwon to Daegu.



The trip from Changwon to Busan is about an hour or so, depending on traffic. As Changwon is situated in a valley, the bus climbs until it reaches a tunnel, and then descends toward Busan on the other side. The approach to the tunnel is beautiful, and facilitates a closer look at some of the dramatic looking mountains that surround Changwon.


Upon arriving in Busan, we were dropped off at the Inter-city Bus Terminal. When you get off the bus and walk into the terminal, you are greeted by dozens of stores and restaurants. This is a shot of the outside of the terminal after we had walked out. Immediately outside there is access to the subway (Sasang Station).


Inside the station, while waiting in line to buy our subway tickets, we spotted a couple of Korean sailors. It is not uncommon to see them, particularly in Busan.


After buying our tickets, we made our way to the platform to wait for the train. The subway in Busan is very easy to use, and all the stops are posted in English as well as Korean (though Katie and I would do just as well without the English, as we've become pretty good at reading Korean).


The subway is generally not too crowded, and if you can't find a seat right away, you usually can within a few stops. The ride from Sasang Station to Haeundae Beach is about 45 minutes.


We finally arrived at the beach, noting that the crowds must have thinned considerably within the past week. Haeundae Beach is popularly known as "the most beautiful beach in Korea", and the entire country converges upon it in August, Korean summer vacation. The umbrellas and life guards are only present during this time, and I suspect that the next time we go they will have vanished.



Katie and I staked out a claim beneath one of the umbrellas for a fee of about $5.00. We then kicked back and spent some time relaxing and declining the dozens of solicitations we received for fried chicken and maikju (beer). Vendors passed us at intervals of approximately three to five minutes.


After lunch we headed to Haeundae Market, which is located on a narrow street not far from the beach. The market is full of quaint, old-fashioned shops selling everything from produce to shoes. Fish are also abundant, like these toothy eels.







Katie snapped this one of a man she spotted sleeping on the floor. Koreans traditionally slept on the floor, and many still do not own western-style beds.


I thought the market provided a good opportunity to show and explain some of the Korean foods we have eaten since coming here. This is a particular variety of Asian cabbage that seems to be primarily used for making kimchi. You can find it in every grocery store, and Korean mothers buy it by the bushel. The traditional way of making kimchi was to add all the ingredients together and allow the mixture to ferment in huge earthen pots that were buried in the ground. Today Korean women use "kimchi refrigerators" -huge refrigerated vats exclusively for making kimchi.


Though kimchi can take many forms, this seems to be the most typical variety. As you can see, the individual cabbage leafs are still clearly discernible, but they are wilty and covered in a spicy, garlicky, red substance. I have to say, I was not a fan of kimchi at first, but if it is warmed up (or cooked), I now find it quite delicious...


Seaweed is a common ingredient in Korean dishes. It's another commodity that's sold in bulk quantities.


These two kinds of leaves seem to turn up as a side dish at many restaurants. You can use them to make little "wraps" by filling them with grilled meats and vegetables. I am very partial to the ones that look like lettuce, but the others -which are sesame leaves- look, feel, and probably taste like elm leaves.


Katie really hates this. We are relatively certain that these are cooked pigs' feet, but for whatever reason they pack a powerful and distinct odor when they're cooked. They seem to be quite popular and they even sell them at E-Mart. I find the smell pretty awful, but poor Katie begins dry-heaving at 300 yards.


These skinny, long eggplants are commonly seen in grocery stores and markets. I've only eaten them once, and they taste pretty much like regular eggplant. I keep meaning to buy a couple and try frying them.


After spending some time at the market, Katie and I headed back down to the beach again. It was around 5:30 by this time, but a lot of people were still enjoying the water and sitting under umbrellas.


At about the middle point of the beach there is a wide, paved area that is designed to accommodate a stage. On this particular day there was an event called "Street Lounge" taking place. The event consisted of various talent groups doing routines. Katie and I watched this group for some time. They did a lot of poorly choreographed dancing sprinkled with some almost-impressive break dancing. Their music was being played so loudly over giant speakers that I think I saw a couple of birds knocked out of the sky. We've noticed that everything in Korea is several notches louder than western ears are comfortable with -concerts, the movie theater, grand-openings, etc.


As we began making our way back toward the subway station, I saw this little boy standing at a toast shop window. "Toast" is very popular in Korea. The word is thrown around the way that we use the word pizza: "Hey, wanna get some toast?" What they are actually referring to is a toasted sandwich filled with almost any ingredient you can think of and slathered with ketchup, mayonnaise and mustard. Toast shops like this one are nearly everywhere.


This last shot is of the street that we use to walk to and from the beach. It's a little run-down, and seems an unlikely area to host a subway station. It seems an even stranger place to be so near Haeundae Beach. Busan has a much different feel to it than Changwon. Changwon is a new city, only developed over the past 20 years or so, whereas Busan is nearly 2,000 years old.